If you got to this page, than you’re either tired of looking at a sunken section of your patio or you’re ready to install a different material. Maybe your outdoor furniture is not leaving you much room and you need to extend. Some of this job will require professional help, depending on size and material. But you can certainly give it a try or at least restore the area that may be an issue. Be sure if it’s not for you, to check out our page on what to ask when hiring a masonry contractor.
I would say that most people who get to my site are willing to give it a try and maybe learn something for down the road. There is a great amount of material to pick from out in local quarries or even masonry supply houses. Your local landscaping store might also have a selection of stone. If it’s a big project and you’re not good with colors than maybe look for some help with what materials to use. My personal opinion would be that if the house is over, say, 60 years old, stay away from non-natural material. (it didn’t come out of the ground or a mountain) Newer homes will work better with the non-natural material. But on the flip side of that I just installed a patio for a client using imitation flagstone and it looks great. So what do I know!
Let’s start with how to restore a natural patio and a non- natural patio. They will generally will be restored the same way. Each project will vary slight depending on the situation. So grab your round mouth shovel, maybe a digging bar, or even a pick for digging.
Remove the stone from the damaged area and set it aside for later use. If the stone is set in mortar you’ll need a heavy hammer and a one inch chisel. Begin to chisel out the mortar joints and get your digging bar and pry under the stone. If the material is damaged beyond reuse then grab your sledge hammer and beat it out. Before you begin to whack at the cement base, chisel a line into and against the existing stones base. (These will create a stopping point.)When you whack the cement base, hopefully the chiseled line will stop the crack from running under a stone that doesn’t need to come out. Your job is to remove that base under the stone. If the stone is set in gravel, sand or just dropped on the dirt, then pick it up and set it aside. Remove the original base and dispose of properly. Maybe you need the earth or material somewhere on the property. Once you have out the material then dig down farther. The rule of thumb for patio bases is six inches for dry laid material. Even before I lay down my base I always tamp my earth. Whether repairing one stones or five stone a good base is a must.
After we tamp the earth then install your crushed stone base at six inches. If your area is larger than ten square feet than after you’ve installed three inches of stone run your tamper over the entire stone base. Starting from the outside of the area then working inward. Then add your next three inches and retamp. If it’s a small job then tamp down the entire six inches but really “give it hell”.
When choosing my bases, I like to use a modified stone which is made up of different size stone particles that compact awesome. Give it a little spray from the water hose and that stone will compact real nice for you. After installing my base and getting the proper amount of stone set, I like to install a geo fabric on top of my bases. I suggest the same for your project. Geo fabric allows water to filter thru but not your setting base material. GOOD TIP HERE!!
Let’s say that your base needs to be a concrete base because the stone above will be pointed to match the original stone. Remember this advice: no stone or masonry product can be pointed with mortar if that product is not set in mortar itself. It will move and the joint will separate and the beginning to the end begins for your mortar joint.
Bags of concrete mixed thoroughly and poured on top of two inches of crushed stone will do the job. Let it harden over night and your ready. If you can’t wait that long go grab some fast setting concrete mix.

Setting stone in a dry laid design.

Move down the page to see about concrete bases and setting.
Look at the thickness of your stone and determine if they are generally the same thickness. If they are, good for you; it’s going to be a little easier.

The two products we use for setting dry laid (No cement) are call screenings and concrete sand. Spread your sand throughout the area and level as best as possible. Grab a straight piece of wood and your level and place the wood on the spread sand and run it along from side to side making sure when you move, your wood is level. This will make for a flat, and hopefully, level area to set your stone. If your area is bigger than the ten square feet we discussed, then try and find two straight pipes or similar products, lay them down on either side of the area. You’ll need to know where to lay the two pipes with regards to the height of your reset stone. Measure the thickness of your new stone to be set and measure down from an existing patio stone. The bottom of your new stone will need to sit right there so your base should come to just above that line you drew. Going above that line will allow for the stone to be set down into the bed you just made. Normally I like to be above around ¼ inch. If a stone is on the thin side (one inch or less) then I’ll “beef up” the bed and make sure I’m set at least 3/8” to a ½” deep.
Once your bed is in place then what I do like to do next (does require cement), is to mix water and cement together to make a paste. This paste will go on the back of our stone right before we set the stone. I’ll only do this procedure with a larger natural stone but not a paver stone, unless requested. If you’re restoring a field stone, then this method would be ideal for you. This method will also help to hold the stone in place.
Getting back to our pipes once you have the pipes at the right height add your sand between the pipes. Grab that straight wood and place it across the sand and on top of each pipe. Slide the wood down the pipe and it will level your base for you. If there are any gaps in the sand than place more sand in the gaps and relevel.
At this point you’re ready to lay the material. Begin to lay your material at your feet and work forward. If your base is good and tight then kneeling on the freshly set stone shouldn’t be problem. The reasoning is that once the bed is set level you don’t want to stand in it and disturb the flat bed. Most 4”x 8” pavers will be set in a uniform set pattern and you’ll be able to”go to town” on setting the pavers. That’s why it’s important to do good prep work before starting to lay your stone.
If you’re setting stone that are different thicknesses then each bed has to be a little different in regards to height. You’ll have to adjust for each bed after you’ve determined the thickness of the stone your about to set. Grab a rubber mallet and you’ll be fine. Get your bed set and paste the back of the stone. Set the stone in the bed and lightly set it level with the surrounding stone. Set a few stone then grab your level or even a straight piece of wood. Place the wood on two existing sides of the reset area and look at the bottom of the wood and determine if the stone is at the right height. If the wood is running across all the reset stone and meeting up with the other stone on a level plane, then you’re in business. If the wood is up on one end or up on both ends, then use your mallet and tap the stone into place. If you set the stone and it is a little bit below the stone and you don’t feel like redoing it, just do it; it only takes a few extra minutes and you can thank me later. You always want to be able to tap the stone down into the bed below for the best bond possible. When you have everything set, then depending upon the size of your joints (or if you set the pavers tight) will determine the final sand application. The sand helps to lock all the material together so it doesn’t move side to side. I use either screening stone or concrete sand when setting a field stone. Finer sand would need to be used on pavers that are set tight. You can use a bar sand or mortar setting sand for pavers. You spread the sand throughout all of the pavers and sweep the sand into the joints. Some of the sands that contain cement will need to be finely misted to set the mix. Make sure you do a great job of sweeping this product into the joints. If you have to use too much water then you might have a mess on your hands. Some applications require that you spray water on the sand lightly and this will lock in the sand between the paver joint. Check the bag for directions.

Setting stone in a concrete base

At this point you’ve removed your existing damaged base and you need to replace the base. Now you’ll need a wheel barrow, mixing hoe and a round mouth shovel. Go to your local supply house and purchase 80 lb bags of concrete mix. That would be the easiest way. If you’re so inclined to read on and are of the adventurous type then I’ll teach you to make your own concrete. How about that?
You’ll first need a good strong wheelbarrow. Go get ¾ inch crushed stone or even river rock. Basically all rocks will work. You’ll also need concrete sand. Do not use any fine sand; you will not get the strength out of finer sand. You’ll definitely need cement. Type I cement is recommended. The basic formula for 4000 PSI strength concrete is 1 part cement to 2 parts concrete sand and 3 parts stone. Piece of cake! Dry mix the sand and cement first, add your water and mix again. Don’t flood the mix; just enough water so you can move it around the wheel barrow without really struggling through the cement.
Once you have it mixed then go ahead and mix your stone in; a little at a time and you won’t kill yourself. Go ahead and pour it into your hole. Make the cement so that you can just about pour it. When you pour the concrete into the hole, tamp down on the concrete. It will level itself. Let me explain! What I mean about tamping down is to use a steel rake and lightly flatten out the concrete so that it becomes level. In the process, the concrete is leveling itself.
After you have given the base 24 hours to dry, then you’re ready to reset you stone. Grab that wheel barrow and hoe again. You’ll need concrete sand and cement. The cement should be type I cement. Your formula is 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. Dry mix together and add your water. This time the rules have changed a little and you won’t be adding that much water as before. Stone setting mortar is tighter because we need stability but a moveable base; too wet and the stone will sink and you’ll be all kinds of angry. So add a little water and mix a good amount of dry mix. Once your water is missing then add a little more. Your cement should be tight enough to hold in your hand and shape something.
Before you shovel in your mix, you have to look at how much cement you need to be a ¼ inch above the surrounding stones. Measure the thickness of your stone and then measure down from an already set stone. Use this as your measurement. Draw a line or just visualize it. Add enough cement mix so that your ¼ inch above the line. If you can do that all the time you’ll be golden. At this point, you’ll need to mix together type I cement and water in a 5 gallon bucket. Mix this until you have a paste like mix. Use this paste for the back of each stone you set. Only put this on after you’ve test run setting your stone. Set your stone down in your level base. Does it look like you’re a ¼ inch above the surrounding stones? If not, pick up the stone and either add cement or remove to get the base where it needs to be. Then pick up the stone and paste the back of it. Reset the stone down in the cement and grab your rubber mallet; lightly at first to get the feel of hitting down on the stone. Begin setting the stone down level with the other stone in the area. Check all points in the stone and make sure there all flush. If for some reason some of the original stone may be uneven but are staying set, then do your best and pick a few points to meet up with.
Once you’ve set the stones and given them a few hours to dry, then, depending on the weather conditions, I like to give the setting cement a little water so the cement doesn’t dry too fast. I only do this if it’s really hot and the sun is beating on it. Once the stone has set, then it’s time to point the stone.
I use the same 3 to 1 mix that I used for the setting mortar. Make sure that the joints are cleaned out and free of any debris before you point. Give it a quick brush and you’re ready to point. You’ll need your steel ½”inch slicker, a mason’s trowel and knee pads. What’s nice about using the same mortar is that the texture of the mortar is great for pointing the stone. When your stone mortar is not over wet but on the dry side, then you can trowel some mortar right next to the joint and slide it into the joint. Once you’ve trowel in the mortar, then press down into the joint and pack it tight down. Make sure you have the right size slicker; the slicker should be the same size as the joint size. If the slicker is close in size then that’s fine for using.
Come to the top of the stone flush or even a hair higher. Your final swipe on the joint should be of a uniformed look and evenness. Once it’s dry, and then lightly brush the joints. Try not to let the sun or hot temperatures burn the joint. Sometimes if the sun dries the joint too quickly, it can bleed the color and the joint will turn a lighter shade. There’s nothing worse than being overwhelmed with a white mortar joint. I like my joint color to be a compliment to my stone work not the other way around. So just sprinkle a little water on the joints and that will help slow down the drying time and that’s a good thing for retaining our color.

Installing a stone patio

If your thinking of installing a stone patio or a brick paver patio it is some times a good idea when the project is too big to bring in a professional. If that’s the case then go to what to ask a masonry contractor page on this site. If the project is on the smaller size, then the above info is all you need.

But let’s suppose you have a small 6’x 6’ patio that you would like to install. First grab yourself a 4’level, tape measure and locate where you would like your patio to sit. If it’s against the house then measure off the corner where your patio will sit. Measure out from the house out 6’6. (Six inches larger for added strength in our base). Drive a pin, stake or make a good measurable mark in the earth. From that point, measure down the house 6’6,”make a mark and measure out 6’ 6” again. This will give you a square corner to start.
Begin to dig out the area and set aside the dirt. Be sure you’re going down at least 4 to 6 inches down from where you’d like your stone patio height to be set. If at all possible, try and begin to think about pitching the patio away from your property. If this can be done while you set your stone base, it will be a lot easier later. After installing your base, spread the stone on a slight pitch away from the property. Once you’ve installed the base then tamp down the stone. Grab yourself a wood stake or steel pin. Sometimes I’ll use some old steel rebar. If it’s straight and long enough then you should be fine. You’ll also need a string line. I now recommend that you start at the house. Determine the height of the patio and make a mark on the wood stake exactly where your patio height will be. If your back door opens onto the patio and you’re stepping down, then you need to measure down from your threshold (bottom of door).From the threshold down to the patio’s surface should measure 6 to 8 inches. Mark the spot. From that point, to the outside of the patio you need to mark your 6 feet. This outside 6’ mark will need to be level with the first mark you made on the wall or stake. Very Important!
Hopefully you’ll also own a steel 2’ square. This part is where some help should be asked. Grab your string line and hand it over to your helper to hold the other end. Tie your string line around the pin at the 6’ mark. From your house at the 6’ mark, place your square against the house and make sure the string line is following the square out. It must run right next to the square and not be hitting the square. Place another pin at the 6’ mark. Drive the pin in at that mark and tie your string. You now have to get your pitch running away from the house. A small line level will do the trick. Any hardware store will have one. Attach the line level and looking down at the level you’ll see two black lines. The bubble would be in the middle of those two lines if we wanted a level patio but we want a slightly pitched patio. So the bubble should cross over the black line and be on the side of the house. This is telling you that the patio is higher against the house and lower away from the house. Tie your string line to that stake. Go back to the opposite end of the patio against the house and repeat the process. Once you have two marks on the outside stakes then attach another string line across and you should be level on the outside width. Always, always pitch away from the property. Make sure your lines are tight and not sagging or you may get a false reading in your line level.
Once you’ve set your lines up around the outside perimeter of your base. Then installing your setting base is next. It will depend on your material what your setting base will be. If the patio is pavers then a screening stone can be used. If the patio is a natural stone and will be pointed then a wet bed must be used.
In this section remember that the square footage could be a lot larger and may be just too much material for a homeowner to handle.
But I want to give you the info just in case. If pavers are to be used then grab your pipes and lay them on opposite sides of one another. Make sure the top of each pipe is where you want your base to be. Laying one of the stones lightly on top of one of the pipes will give you an idea where your stone will sit after you’ve installed your screenings. When you set your stone on the pipe and if the stone is higher than your line than it needs to come down. Once you have it right at the string line, you’re in business. Now do the other pipe and you’ll be ready. Add your screening in between the two pipes and drag a straight board down the two pipes. Pick up the pipes and fill in any gaps. Start on one side and begin to lay your pavers on top of the screenings. Once you’ve laid all the brick then install your outside edge. Outside edge restraints will need to be installed to prevent lateral movement in the patio. Edge restraints are installed with 8” spikes that can be purchased along with your materials. Drive the stakes down thru the holes you’ll see in the edge restraints. Make sure when you place the edge restraints against the paver that they sit tight against the stone and set down about ¾ of an inch from the top of the paver. Install the spikes ever other hole (normal flat area) and you’ll never have a problem. If the patio had to be raised above the grass or the base stone is somewhat showing then I recommend every hole and you’ll be fine. Grab finer sand and spread the sand throughout the patio. Sweep the sand between the joints, give it a little water, let it dry and do it again. This should settle down the sand and make for a great lock.

Let me start off by saying that ever waterproofing issue that I’ve come across was just little different then the last one. That’s not to say that water issues in general will have many similar reasons for being a water issue. But water problems are sometimes tough to solve.
Please have no fear Help with Masonry.com is here. In this section you will find different scenario’s on how the water is coming in your property and how maybe I can help.

Water coming thru the floor

If you are seeing water coming through your concrete or wood floor then in most cases the water can not be stopped but can certainly be controlled. Some cases that I’ve seen there may be a high water table and your property is in that general area. So when it rains, your ground can only take so much before the rain water hits that water table under ground and can’t go anywhere else. The area becomes extremely wet and will always head for a low point around your property.
If you live in a house with a basement, you know what I’m talking about. Water will come between the cracks in the floor or most likely around your perimeter walls where the bottom of the wall meets the concrete floor. What a Nightmare!!!! Sometimes, if it rains hard enough the water will flow onto the floor until it finds a low point. How do you deal with this?
If you have a large basement and no one to help you with the waterproofing job. It will be better if you call in a pro for the job. Go to: what to ask a masonry contractor page on this site and you’ll be cool. But as always in this site we are not afraid of a little manual labor. If you can dig down deep inside your mind and body you’ll save a bundle of cash, if you do it yourself. Let’s try!!!!!

In my professional opinion, the number one solution to water coming up from the ground is a basement perimeter drain and sump pump. Hands down; if properly installed will give you a piece of mind whether you’re there or away from your property. All investment properties with the slightest water issue should have a perimeter drain and sump pump system installed.
You first have to determine the low point in your basement. One way would be to look for where the water most frequently pools when it enters the basement floor. If the water flow is enough then you should see evidence in corners or where you see mud or dirt piles on the floor. This is usually sediment that the water carried and stopped at the low point. But sometimes it’s not that easy. Using a good eye and a straight piece of wood grab your 4’ level. Find an area to lay your wood on the floor and place the level on top of the wood. Make sure when you lay the wood down that it’s placed on the skinning side. Look down at the level and read the bubble direction. Is it level? If it is, then move around the floor with the wood. Always start at that point you just worked from and get numerous readings on the floor pitch. If you have a transient, you’ll be in great shape to find your low point. Sometimes, I’ll even measure down from the floor joints above. I’ll get a couple of readings and determine my low point.
The low point is crucial to proper installation of the sump pump pit. All drains must run to the pit or it’s going to fail.
Once you’ve determined the low point in the floor. Mark that area as where your pit will be. Most basements we come across are made of concrete. Most of the homes we work on are older homes with 2” thick concrete floor. There pretty easy to get thru with a sledge hammer. Most pits are going to need a 2’x2’ round opening and about 30” down. When purchasing your water basin read the dimension and it will tell you what size you’ll need. If you want to go low budget, you can make your own pit out of a terra cotta flue liner that you can buy at a masonry supply house. Make sure that the flue is wide enough to hold your sump –pump. Dig out your pit so that you leave extra room around the perimeter of the basin for crushed stone. About three inches around should do the job.
After you’ve dug your pit and removed the earth from your basement now will be the time to mark your trench for your pipes. You’re going to need to cut the concrete out 6” from the walls in your basement. To do this job a diamond blade saw will certainly come in handy. If you’re comfortable enough to use the saw then go for it. Get someone to spray water on the blade as you cut the concrete and it will keep the dust to a minimum. If you can’t do the cutting it is possible to break the concrete with either a sledge hammer or better yet an electric demo hammer. Demo hammers can be rented at every tool rental store. Demo the perimeter out 6”from the basement walls and remove all concrete. Begin to remove the earth where you cut the concrete. Be sure to remove a minimum of 8” at the high point and maybe even more as you get closer to your pit. We always want our pipes flowing downward towards our pit.
Once you’ve removed the earth (Save for outside of house) then we add our crushed stone on top of the dirt in the trench. Depending on the slope you’ll need more at the high point and less at the low point. Don’t add more then a few inches at the bottom.
Begin to install your 4” p.v.c “with holes of course “in your trenches. The holes in the pipes should be facing downward toward the crushed stone. If water is coming up thru your floors, then the quicker it’s gets into your pipes the better you’ll be protected. Remember that you’ll need 90% elbows for your corners and glue for your seams. What you can also do for added protection against the holes ever clogging up with debris is to add a nylon sleeve that will go around your pipes. Install a section of pipe at a time and install your sleeve. Once you’ve attached your pipe then go ahead and drop in your water basin in the pit you dug. Make sure your pit is somewhat level and your basin will sit level. You’ll need to cut two holes in the side of you’re basin for the pipes to enter. Cut a little more then four inches around and leave yourself a little room to adjust. Insert your pipes and you’re almost done.
Before we close up the trenches, I want to tell you that some water issues seem like they are coming up thru the floor but are actually coming in at the point where the basement wall meet the footer of the wall. In this instance, I would recommend drilling relief holes along that point to allow the water to drain into pipes and not sit behind the wall and slower deteriorate your masonry.
The next step would be to install your sump –pump. The sump-pump will actually remove the water from the basement. A ½ horse power pump should do the job but I would tell the sales person your water issue and they should be able to help you. More water, bigger pump. I’m telling you about the things you’ll need for the basin but were going to hold off assembling the sump pump until we have everything attached outside and your trenches filled back with concrete. Before I add my concrete to my trenches I like to have a layer a stone on top of my pipes for the concrete to sit on. Two inches of concrete throughout the top of the pipes should be fine. The thicknesses of the concrete will depend on what’s gong on top of the concrete.
Before I close up my trenches with concrete I like to add a ½ inch gap against the wall for possible water that may someday get in through the foundation wall. This gap against the wall will allow possible wall water to run into the drain and be carried outside. My goal is never to allow water to make it to the surface of the floor. I like to use a drain board backer wall with rigids but that may not be the easiest things to locate in your area. You can use anything that’s somewhat flexible or even a piece of expansion joint. Make sure after your done pouring your concrete and it sets over night that you pull that expansion joint. It doesn’t have to be to far down in the drain as long as it touches the crushed stone, then the water can filter into the drain. One hint when pouring the concrete in the trenches don’t make the concrete to wet and give a slight slope to the concrete into the ½ inch gap. If water ever got to the surface from another issue then at least the water would run into the drain.
. Now getting back to your sump pump. I skipped around because I want you to lay out where you new pump will go in the basin before you pour your concrete. Make sure your pump has room to operate without hitting the sides of the basin.
You’ll need 1 ½” p.v.c pipe, eight to ten feet, glue, back flow check value, and an extra extension cord. The pump should be centered in the basin and somewhat level. Attach two feet of the 1 ½ p.v.c. to the pump, then attach the check off valve to the p.v.c pipe. Then attach the remaining piece of p.v.c and determine the height where you’ll be exiting the basement. Once you’re at the ceiling height then attach one 90 degree p.v.c elbow to the vertical pipe coming out of the basin.
If you can go next to a window without to much demo then great. If you need to bore a hole through masonry then you might want to call a mason or rent a boring drill and go for it. Once you’ve gotten through the wall then make sure you’re far enough away from your property and hopefully sloping away also. Rule of thumb is at least five feet from the property. This amount will differ from property to property. Once all the pipes have been glued and attached properly then add some water to your basin and do a test run. Make sure there are no leaks and you just saved thousands of dollars. It won’t be easy but you’ll be so happy when you’re done

Water coming through my walls

If water is coming through the walls of your basements foundation than it’s an exterior problem that most likely will be a poor drainage issue or gutter issue. Let’s look at the poor drainage issue first. Most of the problems that I see at peoples homes are that the grade around the base of their property is pitched towards the house. Not a good idea!!! If your getting only moisture issue on the interior walls (paint stained or paint peeling) than regrading in that area will most likely be the answer. But wait please don’t throw more mulch to regrade. Mulch will absorb the water and send it down the foundation walls into your basement. You’re going to need a good compactable soil to tamp down tight. A clay mix (not all clay) and native soil will do the trick. Check with the local landscaping store. Stay away from getting top soil. Top soil will also absorb the water and not be good regrading dirt.

If your property has a good amount of trees or your close neighbor has trees that are sending leaves in your gutters, than your problems could be that they need to be cleaned out more regularly. Leaves will clog the area around the downspout and pour the water right over the gutter next to your foundation and into the property. Now if your gutters are old and sagging forward, then it might be time to have them looked at to be straightened out or replaced. Sagging gutters don’t catch much water.

What I see a lot out in the field is that many downspouts release their water next to the foundation walls. Not a good idea!!! Any big box store will sell you an extension for the bottom of the downspout so that you can get the water far enough away from the property. A good rule of thumb would be at least six feet if possible. If you don’t want to see the extension and you have a slope around your property. Then you can go under ground with p.v.c pipe and come thru at the slope in your property. You must be able to have the new pipe release the water thru an open end. First you’ll have to dig straight down from where the downspout releases the existing water. Next to the house will be your high point so you only need to dig down approximately ten inches but this will vary depending on the slope. Purchase one 90% 4” pipe and one 8’ pipe. You’ll need to make one cut maybe two. You’ll need a saw with small teeth to cut thru the p.v.c. I like to use a hack saw to cut my p.v.c.
If you’re new drain will be farther down then 12”(from grade), then I recommend using schedule 40 p.v.c it’s thicker and will take the wait of the earth for quite some time.
After you’ve dug down and you have slope in the trench you just dug, then cut a piece of p.v.c around 8” in length to go up under your exiting downspout. At the bottom of that piece is where you’ll attach the 90 angle which will turn your water away from the house. Then attach your remaining piece of p.v.c. If you’re going to use schedule forty then you should glue all connections with pipe glue. Ask a sales rep. Back fill the trench and make sure that nothing clogs the open end of the pipe. I sometimes will place native stones around the end so as not to see the water pipe coming thru the earth.

If a lot of water is coming thru the walls and these steps have only slowed down the process than it maybe that the walls are moisture filled and any amount of rain causes issues. It maybe time to remove the earth around the problem area down to the base of the footer. This is a costly job and will require a trained professional. Many older homes that we deal with are made of stone foundations and were never waterproofed from the outside. If this is the case, then removing the earth and cleaning the stonewalls from debris and applying new foundation coating would most likely cure the problem. We will sometimes even apply a waterproofing cement plaster to the area. We let it dry and then apply our waterproofing to our new plaster. I’ll give some necessary steps in what to ask a masonry contractor page. This type of job is not homeowner friendly!!