What to ask a Masonry contractor?

In this section of the site, you’ll find different questions and answers to those questions you might want to ask. If you found a contractor through a referral and you’re very confident in their work, than some of these questions don’t need to be asked but at least you’ll know what to look for. I’ve broken down the questions but category.

Patios

How deep will you be digging for my patio base? Most bases should be down a minimum of eight inches.

What should my base be constructed of? Most bases are constructed of ¾ inch crushed stone or a modified stone. Modified stone has a mix of smaller stone and larger stone.

Does my base need to be concrete? Yes it does, if you are choosing to add mortar between the stone joints. (Pointing) Stones set in a wet bed of sand and cement, than pointed. Concrete bases provide a stronger structural base than crushed stone and we have to have strength if we are pointing the stone. If the stone moves, than the mortar joints crack. When the mortar joints separate, than water can get in the joints and start to cause problems. Some concrete bases are needed because unsuitable soil may exist.

Will you be tamping down the stone by hand or with a motorized tamper? If it’s a small area to tamp, than its fine to use a hand tamper. Make sure there giving it a good whack when driving the tamper down on the stone. Adding a little water to the crushed stone and then tamping, helps to lock in the stone.
If your area is large, then it is a must for a gas powered machine to whack down the stone. Don’t let anyone try and do a large patio without a gas powered tamper. There is no way to get it tight enough in a reasonable amount of time.

Will you be installing a geo fabric or landscaping cloth on top of my stone base? I recommend a geo fabric installed on top of the stone base. This will prevent any of their bedding material to filter through the crushed stone and start to cause movement in the patio. It’s not that expensive and not hard to install. So make sure this goes down on the stone. I even like to see it go tight against the perimeter or a little farther past perimeter. The fabric is only stone the crushed stone when a concrete base is not being used.

What are you using to set my stone on top of? There a few materials that I’ll recommend here. I like to use a stone grit, basically ground up clean crushed stone. It comes in a tiny granular form and is very spread able and compacts very well. Some like to use concrete sand. Concrete sand has small river rock all thru the sand. Concrete sand also locks in well but will move with poor drainage. The other setting bed would be to use cement and sand mixed. This hardens and won’t let water past through it. Cement bases are used when the stone patio product can’t afford to move.

Is it better to set the stone in a sand and cement base or in a dry laid (no cement) application?
This will depend on the material you use for your patio. If you need the patio to absorb rain water or other surface water, than you should set your stone dry laid. This will allow for water to filter thru the joints. Remember not all water is going to be absorbed so make sure the pitch is properly pitched away from your house. If you’re going to point your mortar joints you must set them in sand and cement. If you need to pitch water away from your property quickly and effectively than go with cement base and point the stone. The water will hit the patio and run away from your property and minimize water around the property.

If we go with the dry laid style what will hold them from moving?

We know that the different bases we spoke of will hold the patio from heaving upward or sinking downward. All dry laid patios must have an outside edge install to hold the patio from going side to side and coming apart. Make sure you ask what the material or product there using to hold the outside of the patio. Most cases we will use an thick plastic edge restraint that gets placed against the outside perimeter part of the patio. It’s placed snug against the stone and half inch below the top of the stone. We then drive long nails down thru the provided holes. A little top soil then goes around the restraints and on top. After the top soils placed, you never see the restraints. The other way wold be for the mason to install a masonry product in a masonry base. Brick always make for a nice boarder.

Can they place the masonry edge restraints in the dirt and fill around it?

I come across this issue with masons in a hurry. No you can not!!! The whole point is to hold your patio firm for years not months. Make sure the restraints they use, if masonry, are placed in a mix of either wet concrete or concrete sand and pure cement mixed together in a moist fashion. Placed on top of a compactable soil or crushed stone base if necessary. Most cases the base can be placed on compacted earth.

Is it normal to see small pieces of stone within the patio?

Rule of thumb when using a random size product is nothing smaller that 12”x 12”, worst case scenario would be a 8”x 8”piece.

Stone pointing

How are they going to match the original color of the stone mortar?

This is going to vary from state to state and availability of materials. Mixing cements with different sand colors allows for a natural color to work with. Using dyes in the sand can help with finding the right color. I would ask for a few small samples if you’re going to be doing a larger size job. If it’s a smaller job, then ask about the different formulas they use to achieve different colors. If they look at you a little strange, then go see some of there work before you commit to them doing the job. I’ve seen some real bad colors that stand out like a sore thumb. When the mortars not even close to matching, then it will drive you nuts ever time you look at the joint

Are they going to remove the damaged joint and how far back?

Most honest masons will always remove the old joint but I’ve seen some who will go right over the old one if they can. It’s vital to remove the old stone joint and even some of the interior mortar. I would like to see one to two inches of old mortar removed, depending on the joint there trying to match. I even like to see all dust removed before repointing. It’s very important to have a clean base for a good bond.

How will they match the type of stone joint?

I’ve seen homeowners pay for new stone joints that don’t even match the ones on the property and no one even knew. Before any pointing begins, make sure you go over exactly what the joint will look like when completed. Look for proper placement of lines in the joint. Look to make sure they are not getting the mortar all over the face of the stone. Most important, would be to make sure the size of the joint, when looking directly at the joint, is not wider then the joint there trying to match. If it’s too wide, then it will take away from the stone face that’s being hidden by the mortar joint that’s too wide.

Are there different types of sand that should be used to match my pointing?

If you’re stone joints require that they be cut to achieve a line that’s maybe in your joint, then they have to use a bar sand. Bar sand is a finer sand than concrete sand or plastering sand. When the mason has to cut the joint with their trowel or blade, there can’t be any pebbles in the sand. If bar sand is not used, then the line their cutting will not cut with a nice flat edge. If the joint is a flush stone joint or slightly raked back joint then I recommend using concrete sand. Concrete sand is a more durable sand and will cure with greater strength then the bar sand. Using too much bar sand in a wide joint will almost always crack. With concrete sand, the joint dries like concrete because of the tiny pebbles thru-out the sand and cement. Locking together quite nicely.

Brick pointing

Can we brick point right over the old brick joints?

No! Don’t let anyone tell you that it’s ok to go right over the damaged joint. Each joint that is to be repointed must be ground out to approximately one inch back from the face of the brick, if not farther. Remember were only repointing the front of the brick, we need to go in at least one inch to achieve a proper bond. Some people will tell you its ok just to save you money. But if want a long lasting job, then they must grind out one inch.

Do the joints need to be cleaned out after brick grinding is completed?

That’s a big Yes! It is very important to remove any dust or lingering debris in the brick joints. Dust will prevent the mortar from properly bonding to the brick surface. Dust is a film that absorbs the moisture in the mortar joint and doesn’t allow the existing joint in the brick to absorb the moisture. Thus the pulling of moisture from one mortar joint to another can’t take place with the dust in its way. So make sure you see the mason cleaning out the joints after grinding.

Are there different types of brick joints?
Like in stone pointing, make sure you go over what type of joint should be going back in the brick joint. There is a tool for all types of joints make sure they know you’re aware of this.

Stucco restoration

I have one section of stucco that is damaged; does all the stucco have to come off?
In most cases if the damaged is contained in one area, then cutting out the damaged section shouldn’t be a problem. If the problem is more then half the area, then consider removing all the stucco and restuccoing the entire area. (If cost effective)

How will they know where to stop removing the stucco?
It’s very important in stucco restoration to find a solid base. This sometimes means removing more then first anticipated. A good mason will know when to stop and be confident that they have found a good base. I like to cut out my stucco patches in a square and uniform style. This will make for a better finish job.

Do they have to use stucco wire?
Not every stucco restoration job will call for the use of wire. If the base is solid and they can drive a masonry nail without causing any movement in the base, then I don’t have a problem. There are many times that I’ll use a bonding agent against my surfaces instead of wire. Bonding agents are normally used for masonry bases only. If you have a wood base, then wire must be used over a moisture barrier layer. (Tyvek, tar paper)I mostly use an epoxy bonding agent that is water activated. The epoxy is painted on a cleaned surface or rolled on, waiting only a few minutes, the epoxy is tacky and ready for my base coat of plaster.

How many layers of stucco should they be applying?
If their applying a natural stucco to the surface, most cases would require a three coat application. One base coat, one scratch coat and a finish coat. In an acrylic finish, we apply one ½” coat of base and wait ten days to dry. This drying time allows for any movement that may occur in the stucco. We then apply a 1/8” coat of finish. Acrylic finish allows for slight movement because it can move with the temperature changes that occur. The temperature changes cause mortar to restrict and expand. This is why many natural stucco’s crack. Natural stucco does not naturally move with the temperature changes.
Will the mason be able to match the original stucco style?
If the job calls for a small restoration, than you and the contractor take a step back and look at what you have. Go over ever thing you see in the finish. Lines, bumps, swirls, whatever it is you both see I would mention it. If the job calls for a smooth finish, which we see the most, then I would ask to see the most recent job the contractor has completed. A bad smooth finish is quite an eyesore! There are many types of finishes a mason can apply. Most often it is a texture finish that we see on most restoration jobs. Textured finishes hide slight cracks that may occur in natural sand stucco.
Is it to cold to apply stucco?
It is always recommended not to stucco when temperatures are continuously below freezing at night. If the work must be completed than a frost barrier covering the stucco should be installed. This will help to keep escaping heat. There are antifreeze agents that can be mixed in with the mortar to prevent freezing. I believe these products do work to prevent freezing issues in mortar but we found that our mortar color has a tendency to change when we added agents… Color changes in masonry restoration is not good!
They said it was ok to stucco in the rain, is that true?
It will depend if the mortar is taking on a lot of water. Too must water in mortar will weaken the mortar and begin to break down. If the sub-surface of the plaster (Base coat) becomes too moist then an unacceptable bond will occur. Sub-surfaces need to be dry when the next is applied. Example: One side is wet, the other side dry, the dry side absorbs the wet side, and they bond. Pretty simple!!! I feel like such a poet.
Does the new stucco or restored stucco have any waterproofing in them?
Most stucco that is bag supplied has waterproofing agents. There is cement that has waterproofing agents in them as well and should be part of the mason’s mix. The base coat should not have any waterproofing agents in them. This will cause an unacceptable bond in the next coat applied. Make sure no one tells you they can go right over a surface that is waterproofed. The bond will not hold in the long run. If the surface must be covered, then wire and a base coat of plaster must be installed. Only after drying can you apply the final coat.

Concrete

How thick will the mason pour the concrete in the sidewalk and driveway?
Must local building codes call for 4” of 3,000 to 3,500 psi concrete in sidewalks or pedestrian walks. This of course, must go on top of a tamped earth. Two inches of ¾” crushed stone as our base. Tamp tight and pour four inches . In the driveway, we also tamp the earth first, and then install four to six inches of crushed stone. Tamp stone tight to earth and install 9 gauge steel wire flats on three lifts. Pour six inches of 3500 psi concrete. Piece of cake
Do we need expansion joint in the concrete?
Yes you do and it helps. To often the cheap or not knowing mason neglects to install expansion in their concrete. Even if it’s one block that is being replaced I would install the perimeter. And guess what never happens it doesn’t crack. If you give the concrete no where to move than it’s going to crack. Then expansion joints allow for the concrete to move. Every twenty feet in straight runs. At change of direction in the concrete or against existing concrete. Take a look around and see what areas you think the concrete can’t move and that’s where you install the expansion joint.
Do we need control lines in the concrete?
Control lines are necessary in long runs of concrete but are often used to break up the flatness of concrete and uniformed look it cast. Some control lines are cut in the concrete with diamond bladed saws. I like control lines and how they work. Long stretches of concrete, mostly sidewalk will crack and the control lines being a softer point of resistance becomes the cracking point. The good news is that the crack is below the concrete surface and inside the control line. Out of sight!

Should steel wire be installed in the concrete?
This will depend on the size of the concrete pour and the suitable soil under the pour. I like to use 9 gauge steel wire for my driveways and patio’s. I normally won’t use wire if I’m pouring a sidewalk. If my soil is not the most compactable (clay) then I’ll use wire. If my concrete is over 5 inches thick, I’ll use wire.
Does the wire lie on the bottom of the concrete?
No, it does not! Make sure there pulling the wire up when pouring the concrete. I like my wire to be at the half way point in the concrete.
What type of concrete finishes will they be troweling on the concrete?
Most concrete finishes are a broom finish. The concrete is first troweled, than lightly broomed. Make sure they don’t pour the concrete and level it, then apply the broom. If may look ok in the beginning but it’s sure to crack and flake soon enough. Concrete has ¾” stone throughout its mix. These stone’s must be worked downward in the concrete with a magnesium trowel and then broomed. That’s minimum. I like to first level the concrete with a straight board. I then run my bull float across the concrete which acts as my magnesium trowel. After drying a touch, I’ll apply my steel trowel to seal in the top layer of concrete and then broom. Some concrete is finish after the steel trowel because it makes the concrete very smooth. This type of concrete is found indoors and will get slippery in rainy conditions.
What color will my concrete turn?
99% of concrete will turn a light shade of grey or an off white. Concretes can be colored and you should ask if want a different color. There will be an added charge to color the concrete.
What if my concrete cracks soon after pouring?
I’m not going to tell you that concrete never cracks but unfortunately it does. If it happens over night then we have a problem. Loose base or not tight enough base could have caused the concrete to move and it cracked. Uneven base will crack a concrete slab. To thin in the concrete pour. No expansion joint was installed in the pour. That will probably be the answer. If everything is followed as I spoke about in my concrete section then the concrete shouldn’t crack. It’s when masons are either in a hurry or just don’t know.

Waterproofing basements and foundations

Is adding a moisture barrier paint going to stop water from coming through our walls?
Must likely it will not stop water from coming through your walls, only slow it down. I’ve found that these powder and water mixes do a great job of sealing the walls from moisture that is caused from the inside of the room. We find a lot of basement with poor circulation and someone wants to sell that person a new drain system for the moisture. Half the time, a simple dehumidifier is the answer to the moisture issues. Please don’t think that a thin paint is going to stop water. Maybe for a short time but not long.

Is regrading going to help with my water issues?
Absolutely! I would start here first and then look at your downspouts in the area where the water is the problem. Don’t let anyone tell you, adding mulch or top soil is the trick Regrading with these two materials will not compact tight enough to run the proper amount of water away from the foundation. A good compactable soil is the answer, half clay soil and good old earth will do great job. If clay is not available then good old earth will be fine. Make sure they tamp it down tight.

Is the water coming up through the basement floor?
Most likely it’s not coming up through your floor but at the perimeter of the basement, where the bottom of your walls meet the floor. Pressure from outside of the walls pushes moisture and water through that meeting point. There are many systems that will relieve this problem. Make sure you ask about the different solutions. Some systems will attach a heavy gauge plastic at the bottom of the wall and is expoxied to the floor, only after relief holes are drilled at that meeting point. The water than collects behind the attached system and travels to a low point in the basement the low point is where the pit should be.
Please get references before signing a contract with any basement company. Many systems come with transferable warranties. Don’t forget to ask about your warranty.

Are the exterior walls of my foundation to wet to waterproof?
If they are, then don’t allow one coat of waterproofing agent to be applied. Walls must be dry and free of dust and small debris before applying. If also can’t be too cold to apply the waterproofing agent. Anything below 45% is to cold. Day and night temps.

How far away from the house should my downspout drain?
Depending on the slope of your property at lease six feet away to be sure.

Remember one thing about water issues is they are not the same from house to house. A lot of the solutions are the same but what one will work for you? When talking about the water issues, bring up exactly what happens, when it rains hard or soft. A long or a short time. It will all matter to the waterproofing person. This way the best solution will work the first time.

One final question to ask your waterproofing guy if you have to go the route of a French drain sump pump system.
When installing the p.v.c (pipes) for the drain that will carry the water to the pump do the holes in the p.v.c go below or above the pipe? If they say the holes should be the top of the pipe then look for another company. Trust me you don’t want the trench to fill up with water just to drop the water back down the pipe holes.